BMW S65 Engine ProblemsPin

The 5 Most Common BMW S65 Engine Problems

An M car is a pure concept of performance and built with that in mind.  Some may think that they are “race cars for the street” and in some ways they are.  The 2008-2013 M3 with the S65 combined more modern features than the M3 it was replacing, yet BMW wanted to retain the brute force in the engine, opting for a 4.0 liter V8, instead of a turbo charged engine found in the other models of the 3 series.  The S65 is no doubt an iconic M engine. It’s high revving, loud, and immersive.  Is it reliable though?  As these generation M3 are coming down to a point of relative affordability, what can you expect in terms of repair and reliability?

With owning any M, be prepared for expensive parts and labor.  If you are not comfortable with this, the N54 engine may be a better fit, because you will see here, one part that fails in this engine is $600, not including labor.  These are the top 5 S65 engine problems.

Top 5 S65 Engine Problems

  1. Rod Bearings
  2. Throttle Body Actuators
  3. Idle Control Valve
  4. Valve Cover and Gasket
  5. Oil Cooling

S65 Rod Bearing Failure

S65 Rod Bearing FailurePin

This will no doubt be the first thing that comes up when you google the S65.  The deadly rod bearing failure.  The rod bearings in the S65 have a tendency to wear out prematurely, which could end in engine failure.  This seems to be the number one issue that numerous forums call out.

The only solid objective information you can count on is that less than <1% engines have failed from rod bearing failure and that it has not correlated with miles or even tracking. Everything else is subjective interpretations and inconclusive. – Rajmun340

It seems that the effect of this issue has affected a small amount of the engines, yet it makes all owners nervous.  The larger S85 V10 engine has the same issue.  If you are concerned with this possibly fatal problem, switch out the rod bearings with aftermarket like these.  Most forums have been saying to replace them every 50-80k miles, and gives peace of mind.  To help further, have your oil analysed after the oil changes to check for any wear.

S65 Rod Bearing Failure Symptoms

  • Engine ticking sound at idle and in the 1,600-2,000 rpm range (usually most noticeable at idle)
  • A hole in your engine from it blowing up
  • Engine completely seized and not turning over

Replacement Part:

Replacement Cost: approx. $2,500 for parts and labor. We recommend replacing these every 60k miles. The alternative is a $25k repair bill for a completely new engine!

Here is a clip of the noise:

Throttle Body Actuator Failure in S65 Engines

These are prone to fail in this V8, and the mileage reported for the failures vary.  So these will go out in the engine and the way you find out, is when you M goes into limp mode, you lose engine power, and the DSC and EML lights illuminate.  There are two of these actuators on the engine, and they are costly at approx $600 each.  Then factor in labor which has been quoted on a few forums for nearly $1000.  It is not a cheap fix.  There is not a specific reason they go out, but some have speculated it is due to the plastic gears in the actuators.  I know, plastic gears in a $600 part.

If you are relatively handy, and think you can DIY it, here is a link to a great DIY breakdown.  I would consider it to be an intermediate difficulty and expect it to take around 6 hours.  Let us know if you have ever done this fix.

S65 Throttle Actuator Failure Engine Codes:

  • Fault Code: CDC0 – Throttle Value Actuator CAN Message
  • Fault Code: 2B57 – Check At Lower Top
  • Fault Code: 2B21 – Predriver Check Throttle Valve Actuator

Replacement Part:

Replacement Costs: $1,100 for parts, $1,000 for labor

Idle Control Valve

You will know if you have a faulty Idle Control Valve as soon as you turn the car on.  Rough start and idle fluctuations are the symptoms of this, plus engine lights and error messages.  It will also more than likely put your can into limp mode.  Not a fatal issue, but can turn a weekend drive into a headache pretty quick.

DIY Guide:

S65 Idle Control Valve Failure Symptoms:

  • Rough idle
  • Irregular idle RPM’s
  • Hunting or continually fluctuating idle RPM’s

Don’t confuse bad spark plugs or ignition coils for a bad idle control valve. A bad control valve will usually be throwing off a check engine light. Additionally, unless your spark plugs are really bad, you will likely only experience a few misfires, rather than a consistently poor idle, although bad gapping can cause this. If your S65 is slow to start, misfires under acceleration, or won’t start in the cold, then it is likely a spark plug and ignition coil issue instead.

Replacement Idle Control Valve:

Valve Cover and Gasket

Affecting many other BMW engines, this is a typical issue across the board.  Owners notice that the gasket leaks a small amount.  Some replace just the gasket, others replace both.  Keep in mind that this is a high performance engine that gets hot.  Over time, the gasket and the cover tend to warp.  This leads to oil leaks.

Symptoms are oil stains where you park the car, and oil on the engine.  It is normal and I would keep an eye on how much oil the engine is consuming and leaving on the ground.  If adding oil more than once a month, definitely go get them checked.  The gasket is not very expensive, at $180 or so for the gaskets and spark plug tubes.  The cover is quite a bit more though at $675 per side.

There are DIYs for this one here, and again it is more of an intermediate skill level.

S65 Valve Cover / Gasket Failure Symptoms:

  • Oil leaking from the valve cover
  • Cracks in the valve cover
  • Spark plugs covered in oil
  • Smoke coming from the engine due to hot oil leaks

S65 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Part:

Make sure you also buy the bank 2 gasket if it is failing as well!

S65 Valve Cover Replacement Part:

Oil Cooling

At this point, I’ve got to nitpicking.  This will only be an issue if you are taking your M to the track.  The issue is that the oil can get too hot when running the car hard.  When this happens, the car will go into limp mode.  If you are thinking of getting this M for the track, I would recommend getting a larger oil cooler.  It will ensure you keep the temps down to a manageable level.

Summary of the 5 Common S65 Engine Problems.

Overall, this engine doesn’t have an overwhelming amount of issues, and I had to dive deep and start nitpicking to get to 5 common problems.  The issues it does  have are common and known.  The S65 is a great engine, the parts are just expensive, as with any M car.

Some advice I found from browsing numerous forums.

  • Let the car come to temp before you get on it.  Don’t rev the engine past 4,500 rpm before it has had time to warm.
  • Keep an eye on the oil and change it 4-6k miles.  Check old oil after every oil change.  If it is dirty, you probably have an oil leak, if it has lead in it, change your rod bearings
  • Drive it more.  Don’t let the car sit for days and weeks.  These cars are meant to be driven and driven hard.  Enjoy your car, don’t be scared of it.
  • Find a service center you trust.  This is the case even if you don’t have an M.  Good service centers want to help you enjoy your car.
  • Have at least $1500 put aside for repairs.  It will happen.

Overall, I would consider this to be reliable, but keep in mind what the engine was derived from.  It is a performance engine and needs attention.  Change out the bearing rods if you’re worried about it, and keep an eye on the oil.  This will help ensure long life to the engine.  If you are one who has been looking to jump into a E9X M3 due to them becoming somewhat affordable now.  I would say jump on in.  Make sure to look over the maintenance records, and do a pre-purchase inspection.

If you are thinking of buying an M3, check out our buying guide.

S65 Reliably Score: 2

1 is the best, 4 is the worst.

Overall there are no huge flaws to the design and with proper maintenance it will run well over 100k miles.  Look at examples here.  One has 190k on it.  It does need attention, and will repairs will be expensive when needed.

What are your thoughts or experiences with the engine?  Let us know.

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  1. Bought my 2010 M3 a year ago with 83,000 on her. Have 87,000 now and have had to change both throttle actuators, all fluids, full tune-up, valve cover gaskets, engine mounts, turn signal bulb, front road shield pieces, coolant hose leak and now the thermostat gasket is leaking. Poorly maintained car to say the least when I bought it Found a company that sells re-manufactured actuators for $360 each, lifetime warranty. Parts aren’t super expensive, stay with OEM and shop around. I would not have bought this car If I couldn’t do all the work myself. She’s a head-turner and I get many compliments but Man, she better get more reliable soon!

    1. Hi Mike,

      That sounds like an unfortunate experience so far. Often times people end up selling their BMW’s because they do require a bit of maintenance around that age and mileage, especially a high performance engine such as the S65. Things slowly build up and eventually owners realize they’re in over their heads.

      Fortunately, as you mentioned, for the DIY crowd this often is not a big issue. Part costs may add up over time, but it’s much more reasonable when you tackle things as they come up. Best of luck with your S65 moving forward. The E9x M3 is definitely a beautiful car, and the S65 is phenomenal when running well.

      Best Regards,

      BMW Tuning

  2. Buy/drive this car if you are an enthusiast. E9x M’s are getting up there in age and would be a pain in the butt to own for someone who doesn’t know anything about cars. I bought my first BMW in 2010, a 2006 330i. I only sold it back in October to buy my current 2008 E90 M3 6-speed. I learned how to work on BMW’s from the 330i so the M3 isn’t much different. Both N/A engines and pretty straight forward to fix. So far, I changed the alternator, thermostat, plugs, and upgraded the power steering reservoir that tends to overflow when heated up. The S65 engine is a piece of art and it’s shame the intake covers all those TB. My m3 has 62k miles on it so I’m looking to do the RB sometime in the near future. It might not be the fastest stock V8 on the road but it sounds the best. If you like working on your own cars and appreciate German power, the LAST German V8 of it’s kind is just what you need.

  3. Great information above ref E9X M3’s.,
    I own a 2013 E93 M3 (purchased in 2016 with 5k miles only, lease turn-in). I currently have 41k miles and change oil every 5-6k miles with good oil and Blackstone analysis. Car runs great, always proper warm-up and never launched.
    Question, I read that the RB’s were re-engineered after 2011 and made better?

    1. Hi Noel,

      Thank you for the positive feedback! Interesting – we haven’t come across any indication BMW re-designed the bearings after 2011. I double checked OE parts and from what I can see it’s the same exact part across all E9x M3’s with the S65 engine.

      It’s possible BMW quietly re-designed the bearings without bringing it to light in the form of updated part numbers. I don’t believe that is the case but we don’t have any definitive information either way.

      Best Regards,
      BMW Tuning

    2. In 2011, BMW switched the S65 rod bearing material to a harder tin/aluminum from lead/copper for environmental reasons, however the anecdotal data don’t suggest that this reduced or affected the chances of rod bearing failure. And it’s harder to detect wear on the newer bearings using oil analysis since tin and alu wouldn’t be picked up on testing. Some people believe there was an improvement in bearing clearance but this hasn’t been proven conclusively.
      Still a good idea to change them out after 50-60k.

  4. yeah hiya guys/gals, Had my e93 m3 S65 convertible since 2012 had continuous issues with the local dealer on diagnosing the throttle actuator/s problem we had, left bank “fail” so bit the bullet got got a pair from the US for less than half the cost of the dealer quoted estimate for 1 @ $2500 AU ……I near passed out when the dealer gaver me the quote for repair. So pleased i looked outside of Australia and found genuine BMW parts available elsewhere. Apart from the one actuator failing I’ve had no issue at all with anything else in the time ive had it, although that magnificent beasty is still only a youngone being less than 94000 km.s today! I have no complaints cept the obvious of not using her enough. Goodluck all

  5. Hi BMW Tuning, thanks for the info, I have a 2012 M3 ZCP e90, its just had its throttle actuators replaced at 141,000km’s, owned since 110k almost 2 years ago. the only other thing that has started showing is a clunk when it goes into gear, fluids have all been replaced, but the sound still occurs. Original RB’s, but I’m looking to get them replaced next year for peace of mind.

    1. That’s likely the flex disc/guibo or carrier bearing in your driveshaft failing. I had the same thing, I changed the flex disc/guibo and got the driveshaft serviced at my trusted BMW shop and it’s gone now.

  6. I have 154,000 miles on my E92 M3 with original rod bearings. Both actuators have been replaced, (source VDO actuators as they are the exact same part but far cheaper without the “BMW” tax). During my ownership I’ve replaced the rotors and pads, both actuators, the alternator, two batteries and a few wheel speed sensors. These cars run amazing if you take the time to maintain them. Just about to replace my original engine and trans (DCT) mounts and that will be it.

  7. Hi All I have a MY11 e90 CompPak it has 43000ks. I brought when it had 14000Ks. I have just had the Throttle Actuators done Brought them from you get a lifetime warranty plus the option for a CORE replacement so cost to me was $1700AUD then I get back approx $600AUD after courier costs to the UK and that’s for two. Cost here in AUS is $2275.00 each plus fitting. My car went into limp mode and fault codes showed issue with Bank2 which is the most common one to go. Heat Sink is the actual cause and it’s mainly time based as the Actuators sit right in the middle of the V so pretty hot there. I decided to do my Rob Ends at the same time and a independent BMW mechanic did it for a very big saving so I am happy and now feel confident knowing it’s unlikely to need doing again. BTW with advancements in bearing over the years, most specialists are saying they don’t need doing a second time but mileage and use will always dictate that. I have an M3 world X Pipe and Stage 2 tune and GTS gearbox tune as well and this changed the car amazingly. It now feels more alive and very different to drive plus I have gained about 40RWHP. I am now pretty much on Par with standard F80s especially as they generally struggle getting power to the ground. The E9X platform is a great one and an amazing car to tour in or use on longer more flowing tracks they are often still the king of the ring as that amazing track suits it’s chassis and power curve. They are a true collectable but as the guys say here they need to be driven and driven hard and will always bring a smile to your face. Thanks for the article and comments from other owners. This is my 4th M3.

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